Thursday, May 30, 2013

The local speciality in Burgos

Blood sausage: morcilla!
I was assured that the white lumps were not fat, but rice.
So, in fact, it is a healthy dish, proclaimed our local friend.

Sunny side up

Snug between toasts.
Eggs are used a lot in Spanish cooking, and not only for breakfast.
Many dinner items feature eggs.

Burgos

Gastronomic capital of Spain, 2013
The waiter pointed to the crowds and said "Economic crisis? What crisis?"
Obviously, it also helps to be listed on top on Tripadvisor!

Obaneja Riopico (144 innhabitants)

...which we thought was where we were the last time we had a coffee break
Nothing much to stop for.
But this is where pilgrims have the choice of three routes to Burgos:
two lousy ones going through the industrial zone,
and a pleasant one by the river.
Our host at Casa Caracol, Anja, pointed the latter out to us.

The climb ahead to Burgos

It was not as bad as I had feared.
But it was chilly.
Burgos boasts of having the coldest weather in Spain 
because of its altitude (about 1000 m above sea level).

Open air chapel

On the kerb by the roadside.
In case you felt the need.

Gentle climb towards Burgos

Pleasant pilgrim meeting between fellow countrymen.
In total, we met five 1/2 Norwegians.

Watch out!


There is also a road sign for "crossing pilgrim" which I unfortunately did not take and cannot, therefore, add to the above collection.




Breakfast at the Tienda

For those who did not have a host who served breakfast like we had at Casa Caracol.

Casa Caracol


The highlight of our camino this time was staying with Anja at Casa Caracol.
Her house was old, charming and quirky and newly done up with 
a fresh coat of paint, new floors etc.
She served coffee, biscuits and a warm chat when we arrived.
No tv or wifi, but discussions about literature, art and music.
She reads widely and her kitchen - the warmest spot in the house - was filled with books.
Next morning, she served an organic breakfast which included homemade orange marmalade,
and hand-painted a pilgrim's seal in our pilgrim's passport.

Payment? Give a donation (take what you want, leave what you don't need).


Tienda

The local hangout at Ages which sent us to Casa Caracol, luckily,
and not to the municipal albergue.

Redecilla

A tiny stop with a treasure for pilgrims who take the time to look.

The km ahead

Informative at the albergue reception.
Good news because there are many possible stops along the way.

An albergue on the road

Does the job but lacking in charm.

Small town, amazing church

Navarette, pop. 2600

Time for some sightseeing


Taking care of pilgrims, 2013

A little nourishment

Making wine (the famed Rioja) from stone

In time, this is become wine

with some help from Coke.
Good idea for an instant greenhouse.

Poppies to start the day

Edible weeds for breakfast

Lady's cloak (Alchemilla vulgaris)

Wifi!

Spring sprung overnight

Should we knock?

Another pretty stop


Camino landscape



Thistles, taller than pilgrims

Mustard greens?


Ailments with healers to match

A common pair on the camino.

Santo Domingo

 Besides taking care of their many needs, Santo Domingo also gives pilgrims a chance to have some fun,

Sign in gold too

Only a few more km to go

A single poppy

At other times, we saw only poppies and nothing else.

Slow and steady...

...wins the race. At this point, I did not know that the snail trying to tell me something.

Another early departure

As usual, we start off together with the other pilgrims but soon, 
the km between us lengthen and spread us out along the camino.